Rome with Kids: Four Busy Days Exploring Ancient Rome
Rome was our first stop in Italy, and it was a destination I had wanted to visit for as long as I can remember. The city absolutely lived up to the hype. It’s hard to think of another place where world-famous landmarks seem to appear around every corner.
We spent four days exploring Rome with our kids and packed a lot into our time there. There wasn’t much relaxing involved—we walked well over 20,000 steps most days—but we managed to see many of the city’s most iconic sites while also discovering a few places that weren’t on the typical tourist itinerary.
If we were planning the trip again, we’d probably add another day or two. Rome rewards a slower pace, and having extra time would have made the trip feel a little less rushed. Even so, we left feeling like we’d experienced an incredible amount in just a few days.
- Day 1: First looks at Rome
- Day 2: Pantheon, Spanish Steps, Borghese Gardens and Piazza Navona
- Day 3: Jewish Ghetto, Roman Forum, Colosseum
- Day 4: Campo di Fiori, Castel Sant’Angelo and Vatican City
Day 1:
Getting to Rome took some effort. We disembarked from a two-night cruise from Barcelona to Genoa, then boarded a train for the roughly five-hour journey to Rome.
After arriving, we grabbed a taxi to This airbnb which ended up being one of our favorite accommodations of the trip. The location was excellent, the patio was wonderful, and our host couldn’t have been more welcoming.
Since it had already been a long travel day, we kept our first evening fairly relaxed. We headed to Grano La Cucina for a quick and inexpensive dinner before walking next door for gelato at Panna & Liquirizia.
The location made for a great introduction to Rome. We sat on the nearby steps overlooking Trajan’s Column while enjoying our gelato and taking in our first views of the city.
Before heading back for the night, we took a walk toward the park behind the Colosseum. Our son found a basketball court with an incredible view of one of the world’s most famous landmarks, and it ended up being one of those simple travel moments that we still remember.
After that, we headed back to the Airbnb and called it a night. We had a busy few days ahead of us.
Day 2:
Our day started at Sant’Eustachio Caffè, a famous coffee shop just a minute from our Airbnb. It was busy even first thing in the morning, but the coffee and pastries were worth the stop.
Since we were nearby, we walked over to the Pantheon. It wasn’t open yet, so we only admired it from the outside for the moment. In hindsight, this ended up working out well because the plaza was much quieter in the morning than it would be later in the day.
From there, we made our way to the Trevi Fountain, hoping to beat the crowds. We arrived around 8:15 a.m. and were surprised by how many people were already there. If there was one theme of our time in Rome, it was crowds. The fountain itself is beautiful, but the sheer number of visitors took away some of the magic. If you’re hoping for photos without hundreds of other people, you may need to arrive much earlier than we did.
After the Trevi Fountain, we passed Hadrian’s Temple and continued on to the Spanish Steps. We had considered visiting the Capuchin Crypt, famous for its decorative displays made from human bones, but it didn’t open until later in the morning. It looks like a fascinating stop if you can fit it into your itinerary.
Since we had gotten through our morning sightseeing faster than expected, we decided to head to Villa Borghese. It was a bit of a walk, but it ended up being one of our favorite parts of the day. If you’re heading there, I’d recommend picking up some drinks and snacks beforehand. There are a few places to buy food inside the park, but they tend to be pricey.
We spent a couple of hours strolling through the gardens, visiting the playground, seeing the ponds, and enjoying some much-needed downtime before continuing on to the overlook above Piazza del Popolo.
After all that walking, we were ready for a break. One of the biggest advantages of staying in a central location was being able to return to our Airbnb for a little rest before heading back out for lunch.
We ate at Miscellanea, a small restaurant near many of the sights we planned to visit. The food was excellent, and while we ended up sitting inside, they also had a few outdoor tables available.
After lunch came the attraction I had been most excited to see: the Pantheon.
The line looked intimidating when we arrived. It stretched around much of the plaza, but thankfully it moved quickly and only took about ten minutes to enter. The building itself absolutely lived up to expectations. It’s one of those places that feels even more impressive in person than it does in photos.
Just a few minutes away, we stopped at Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio di Loyola. While it may not be as famous as some of Rome’s major attractions, it ended up being one of our favorite churches in the city. There were very few people inside, and we spent some time simply sitting and admiring the incredible ceiling artwork.
One thing that amazed us throughout Rome was how often we’d stumble across places like this. A church that would be a major attraction almost anywhere else in the world can feel like a hidden gem here because there are so many historic sites packed into one city.
Next, we wandered over to Piazza Navona. By pure luck, there seemed to be some sort of festival or community event taking place. There were activities for children, entertainment, and a lively atmosphere that made the square especially fun to explore. The kids enjoyed joining in and burning off some energy after a day filled with sightseeing.
We wrapped up the evening with dinner at Pasta e Vino. The pasta was excellent, and the location couldn’t have been better. Just around the corner is Largo di Torre Argentina, the archaeological site where Julius Caesar was assassinated. Today, it’s also home to a cat sanctuary, which may have been even more exciting for our kids than the ancient history.
For dessert, we headed to Mr. 100 Tiramisù, which offers dozens of different tiramisu flavors. It was the perfect way to end a busy day exploring Rome.
Day 3:
We started the morning in Rome’s Jewish Ghetto, one of our favorite areas of the city. It felt noticeably less crowded than many of Rome’s major attractions, which was a welcome change of pace.
Our first stop was breakfast at Pasticceria Boccione, a bakery that has been serving customers for more than 300 years. It ended up being one of our favorite breakfast stops of the trip.
Afterward, we spent some time wandering through the neighborhood. We explored the ancient ruins, stopped for coffee, and searched for the Stolpersteine—small memorial plaques embedded in the sidewalks that commemorate residents who were deported and killed during the Holocaust. It was a moving reminder of the neighborhood’s long and complex history.
My husband also visited a small museum in the area while I stayed outside with the kids. Children weren’t permitted inside, but the museum was free and provided additional insight into the history of Rome’s Jewish community.
One thing we appreciated about this part of Rome was how different it felt from the city’s major tourist areas. The streets were quieter, the pace was slower, and it gave us a chance to experience a different side of Rome before diving back into the crowds.
After breakfast, we crossed Ponte Fabricio, the oldest bridge in Rome, to reach Tiber Island. From there, we continued into Trastevere, grabbing a coffee and wandering through the neighborhood’s charming streets. We popped into a few beautiful churches and stopped for a snack at Supplì, one of Rome’s classic street foods. Looking back, I wish we had eaten even more of these during our trip.
Next, we crossed Ponte Sublicio on our way to the Mouth of Truth. It’s one of those classic Rome attractions that’s fun to see, even if it doesn’t take long. From there, we walked through Circus Maximus before stopping for a quick pizza lunch at Trattoria Pizzeria Luzzi.
The afternoon was dedicated to Ancient Rome.
We had booked a three-hour guided tour that included the Roman Forum, Palatine Hill, and the Colosseum. Overall, it was a good experience, but if I were planning the trip again, I’m not sure I would choose a tour.
Originally, we had arranged a private guide at a great price, but he had to cancel when he couldn’t secure tickets. By that point, most of the regular tickets were sold out, and I was worried about dealing with long lines with the kids. The tour felt like the safest option.
The guide was knowledgeable, and we learned a lot, but three hours in the heat with a lot of walking and information can be challenging for kids. We also felt somewhat rushed, especially inside the Colosseum. One downside of a group tour is that you’re moving at someone else’s pace rather than your own.
Toward the end of the visit, staff began clearing visitors from the arena floor. We wanted to make sure we had time to see the upper levels before closing, so we thanked our guide, returned our headsets, and explored the rest of the Colosseum on our own. I’m glad we did. We only had about 20 minutes before closing, but it gave us enough time to take photos and experience part of the site at our own pace.
For families, my recommendation would be to book regular tickets if you can get them. A tour certainly provides valuable historical context, but we found ourselves wishing for a bit more flexibility.
After a long day of sightseeing, we headed to the Monti neighborhood for dinner. There were plenty of restaurants to choose from, but we ended up at Pizza Drinks & Food after seeing strong reviews.
It was exactly what we needed: inexpensive, delicious, and family-friendly. The large seating area in the back was perfect for tired kids after a full day of walking.
Of course, no day in Rome would be complete without gelato. We stopped at Fatamorgana on the way back to our Airbnb. While it was good, it ended up being one of our least favorite gelato stops of the trip.
Then it was time for the long walk home and some much-needed sleep before another busy day in Rome.
Day 4:
We started our final full day in Rome with breakfast at Caffè Camerino. The coffee was excellent, but the standout for me was the pistachio croissant.
Our first stop was Altare della Patria, also known as the Victor Emmanuel II Monument. Before our trip, I had read a lot of conflicting information about how to access the elevator to the top, so we weren’t entirely sure what to expect.
It turned out to be pretty simple. We arrived right when the attraction opened, walked up the main staircase, and found the ticket office on the left side of the monument. After purchasing tickets, we took the elevator to the rooftop terrace.
The views alone made it worth the visit.
While admission also included access to the museum below, we only spent a short amount of time there. The real highlight was being able to look out over Rome and see many of the city’s famous landmarks from above. This ended up being one of the more underrated attractions we visited and is something I would absolutely recommend.
Next, we wandered through Campo de’ Fiori, a historic market square filled with vendors selling produce, souvenirs, and local products. We picked up a few snacks and gifts before continuing our morning.
By this point, we were ready for a break, so we stopped at Frigidarium for gelato. This ended up being our second-favorite gelato shop in Rome. The hard chocolate shell coating the gelato was especially good and made it stand out from the many other gelato shops we tried during the trip.
Our next stop was Castel Sant’Angelo, which almost didn’t make our itinerary. In hindsight, that would have been a mistake.
The castle was far less crowded than many of Rome’s major attractions, and we found it fascinating to explore. Between the architecture, history, and excellent views over the city, we ended up spending much longer there than we expected. There were also plenty of places to sit and take a break, which was becoming increasingly important after several days of nonstop sightseeing.
Around 2:45 p.m., we met our guide for a Vatican City tour that we had booked through Airbnb Experiences.
I had been a little concerned about how the kids would handle the Vatican Museums, but our guide did an excellent job keeping everyone engaged. In fact, I thought this tour worked better for families than our Colosseum tour the previous day.
The tour included the major highlights of the Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel. The museums and the extensive displays of artwork are very interesting. And, the Sistine Chapel is as beautiful as you’d imagine. I will note though – you are crammed in there, shoulder to shoulder, and supposed to be in complete silence with no pictures/videos, but inevitably every few minutes you’d hear from a guard ‘SHHHHH’ or ‘NO PICTURES’. I can only imagine how wonderful it would be to see it without crowds.
Also, unfortunately, I hadn’t read the details carefully enough and didn’t realize that the tour ended before entering St. Peter’s Basilica.
By the time we finished, we had already been walking more than 25,000 steps a day for several days straight and simply didn’t have the energy for another long line. Instead, we admired the views of St. Peter’s Square and the Basilica from the outside before calling it a day.
If visiting St. Peter’s Basilica is important to you, I’d recommend double-checking that your tour includes direct access from the Sistine Chapel into the Basilica. Otherwise, you may find yourself waiting in another lengthy line after the tour ends.
On our way back to the Airbnb, we stopped for dinner at La Montecarlo before making one final gelato stop at Gelateria La Romana—our favorite gelato of the entire trip. We had enjoyed it so much earlier in the trip that we couldn’t resist going back one more time.
After dinner, we packed our bags and enjoyed a quiet evening. We had an early airport pickup the next morning and were to our next stop (Istanbul!) after an unforgettable few days in Rome.
Final Thoughts
We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Rome.
Our Airbnb was in an excellent location, the food exceeded expectations, and the amount of history packed into one city is difficult to comprehend until you see it for yourself. Standing inside the Pantheon, exploring the Roman Forum, and walking through the Vatican were experiences we’ll never forget.
At the same time, Rome was also one of the busiest places we’ve ever visited. The crowds were constant, traffic could be chaotic, and some of the most famous attractions felt overwhelmingly crowded at times. None of that was surprising—Rome is one of the world’s most visited cities—but it did affect our experience more than we expected.
Looking back, some of our favorite moments weren’t necessarily the biggest attractions. Wandering through the Jewish Ghetto, relaxing in Villa Borghese, discovering great food, and stumbling upon quieter corners of the city were just as memorable as visiting the Colosseum or Trevi Fountain.
Rome had been on my travel bucket list since I was a kid, and it absolutely lived up to its reputation. At the same time, it left me excited to return to Italy someday and explore some of the country’s smaller towns and less-visited regions.
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